Kiwa Taproom

Kiwa Taproom occupies a traditional Korean hanok at 74-7 Yulgok-ro 1-gil, in the quiet Sogyeok-dong back streets between Gyeongbokgung Palace and Bukchon Hanok Village. The name echoes giwa, the dark clay roof tiles that cap the surrounding houses, and the setting is the point: low tables, century-old timber beams and a courtyard feel, a world away from the neon-and-concrete look common elsewhere in Seoul's beer scene.

It is run by Euljiro Brewing, which also operates two taprooms in the Euljiro district, and the house beers are the core of the list. Euljiro pours five house beers across its venues, among them an amber lager, an American-style hefeweizen and a robust porter. The mood in the room is unhurried and low-key.

Beer Asia's Seoul guide lists opening from noon to 11pm every day, so it works as an afternoon break from sightseeing around the palaces as well as an evening stop. It is popular with both locals and visitors, and a queue at peak times is normal; come in the late afternoon or early evening to get a seat inside the hanok itself rather than waiting outside. It suits anyone who wants a beer in one of the most distinctive buildings in the city, and pairs naturally with a walk through Bukchon or Samcheong-dong.